Touring Cloverland: An Early Auto Adventure Across Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

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Prior to the coming of the automobile, travelers to the Upper Peninsula had to maintain the routes of the railroads and could not venture into the wilds of the region. With the arrival of the automobile, Lower Peninsula people began to look to the corners of the Upper Peninsula as a place to tour.

In the spring and summer, ads were placed in newspapers and magazines by the Michigan Tourist and Resort Association and were having positive results.

In July 1921, an anonymous Grand Rapids couple took an 18 days trip and including their car upkeep cost them $100 (2025 value $1,752). They returned home praising the roads and scenery of Cloverland as the U.P. was referred to at the time. What follows is their account of the trip:

We went from Grand Rapids to Newago and then to Baldwin. From Baldwin, the second day we cut over to the West Michigan pike at Scottville then north to Manistee and Onekama around beautiful Crystal Lake to Traverse City, Charlevoix, Petoskey and Mackinaw City.

At Mackinaw City we took the ferry to St. Ignace and from there we followed Route 12 through Cedarville to the Soo. From this point we cut across to Rexton, going over elegant roads. At Rexton, we veered to the north as far as Newberry over stone road.

From Newberry we cut through the stumps over a winding road to the mouth of the Two Heart river on Lake Superior. Here was Paradise indeed. For 35 miles over this woods road we never saw a sign of habitation or human life, never even meeting another car.

Fishing in Two Heart

Near the mouth of the Two Heart we came upon a lumber camp of mighty hospitable folks. They were glad to see us and said our “Big Six” Studebaker that was the first large car that had been that far into their woods.

I found the fishing in the Two Heart, all that Upper Peninsula press agents have claimed.  Not a large stream, the water is of a brownish hue and the German brown trout lie in holes waiting for fishermen to yank them out. At the mouth of the river, in the deep water of Lake Superior, the Coast Guard captain told me that you could in calm weather, see big German brown trout swimming along the bottom of the lake.

We camped for two days on the Two Heart and were very  sad when we had to leave. Turning back we cut through the woods to Newberry then west and north through Seney over the beaver trail to Munising. Here we passed through mile after mile of virgin hardwood, beautiful maple, beech and birch.

Marquette was our next stop then Houghton, Hancock, Calumet and Lake Linden. We hit Lake Superior again at Ontonagon. Because of the work on the roads it was necessary to turn south to Route 12 at Watersmeet and then west to Bessemer, Ironwood and Hurley, Wisconsin. Doubling back to St. Ignace we passed through Iron Mountain, Iron River, Escanaba, and Manistique. 

Camped 15 Nights

Our return trip from St. Ignace through the lower peninsula was through Petoskey, Boyne City, Kalkaska, Lake City, and Cadillac. During our tour we were on the road for 18 days. Fifteen nights we camped using a side tent alongside of the car. Having a floor to our tent we were never bother by mosquitoes or bugs. We did all of our cooking out-of-doors, except the two days we stayed at hotels and the one day we spent with friends at Luther. While you folks down here have been suffering with the heat we found the nights so cool in the Upper Peninsula that all of the blankets that we had were scarcely enough.

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Russell Magnaghi

Russell Magnaghi was born in San Francisco in the middle of World War II, but has lived in Michigan's Upper Peninsula since 1969. Magnaghi received his education at the University of San Francisco (BA 1965) and at St. Louis University (Ph.D. 1970). Magnaghi has had a 45-year teaching career at Northern Michigan University and also served as director of the Center for Upper Peninsula Studies. He has written many journal and newspaper articles and books and has given talks on local heritage and regional history.

19 Comments

  1. Rich on April 30, 2025 at 7:18 am

    Quite an adventure. Thanks for reprinting this account.

    • Kathryn Deloria on May 10, 2025 at 9:45 am

      Wow, what a journey! Thank you!
      …Cloverland…who knew!?

  2. Tad Einloth on April 30, 2025 at 7:33 am

    Excellent story – return to the good old days!

    Tad

  3. KateC on April 30, 2025 at 7:36 am

    Great story. Crazy to think of driving that distance on those “rural” roads.

  4. Bruce Orttenburger on April 30, 2025 at 9:23 am

    Enjoyed this story…impressive trip they had in their “Big Six” Studebaker…catching German Browns and having a shore lunch on Lake Superior…that’s an experience!

    • Peter McGuinness on May 9, 2025 at 7:39 pm

      The UP is still an awesome place to travel.

  5. Louise Anderson on April 30, 2025 at 12:07 pm

    Driving north off of M-123 to the mouth of the Two Hearted River is still a big adventure!! My GPS never works correctly. I can’t imagine it back then. Thank you for the article.

  6. Edd Tury on May 1, 2025 at 3:02 pm

    That “Big Six” Studebaker must have been a reliable buggy.

  7. Sandi Spieles on May 1, 2025 at 5:48 pm

    In 1934 two young men drive to the UP to check out an inherited property – wort the taxes? Their book is called A SMALL BEQUEST by Edmund G. Love – copyright 1973 – Wayne State University Press Detroit 1987. Enjoy!

  8. R.W. Monroe on May 2, 2025 at 10:53 am

    Having spent my youth in The U.P., both my parents were born there. My Dad in Shingelton, My Mother in Wetmore.I know All the spots that they visited well. I to have fished the two-hearted river in my youth, and as an adult, I’m 66 now. Yes, those browns are still there and so is the peace and quiet. I hope it always will be.The U.P.,is, and always will be,Gods Country, and Home to me, as most of my Family has been laid to rest in Munising Cemetery. From Great Grand Parents, to Immediate family. Thank you for such awesome memories reading this story.

  9. Linda Sorensen on May 3, 2025 at 7:09 am

    Having done a similar U.P. road trip in October 2023, in our Ford F-150 over mostly paved roads, I can only imagine what this road trip entailed. What an adventure! Thanks for sharing.

  10. Laurie Steele on May 3, 2025 at 3:25 pm

    *sigh* Thank you for the memories of home. Born in Marquette, raised in Manistique
    and lived in Au Train. Now, speaking with someone in the South, I’ll inadvertently make a comment like, “ya, eh?”. I always get the oddest looks.

    • Boyce Archie on May 10, 2025 at 9:27 am

      This trip can be duplicated today. However, now can be seen the UPs wonderful water falls. While living in Eagle River, Wis. we would d rive to Bond Falls for the day and have an amazing day. A new observation deck has been built there. Just super!!! Wish I was there right now, not in Florida

  11. Carol A Smith on May 11, 2025 at 10:12 am

    Russ’s decades of work on the history and culture of the U.P. are priceless. Not sure what he’s working on now, but you can be sure it’s something significant. At 82 he remains vital ans engaged, a great example for us all. I see him at the gym, where he still regularly works with a trainer. Despite his California roots, he’s become a UP treasure.

  12. Jeff Devlin on May 11, 2025 at 4:58 pm

    Just got back from Garden moved my brother in. A forgotten America lets keep it that way.

    • Neil Roder on May 11, 2025 at 6:07 pm

      I grew up in Garden. I’m San Diego since I retired from the Navy.

  13. Henry Smith on May 12, 2025 at 10:56 am

    Great adventure, thanks for sharing! Had property near Republic on the Michigamee River, God’s country & good fishing as well! Took many trips to that area as well as Drummond Island, St. Ignace, Hessel/Cedarville, Germfask, Munising, Marquette, Ishpeming, Chassell, Houghton, Calumet, Cooper Harbor & many other spots. All were spectacular trips!

  14. David Klessig on May 12, 2025 at 11:02 am

    We have purchased a log cabin in the keewauna in 2009.Last fall we toured the U. P. from west to east and we camped atTwin Harbors,it is still very remote and gorgeous. There was twenty plus miles of washboard roads to get there,but we’ll worth the trip.

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